FM Complete Intake Kit for Mazdaspeed Miata Installation: Step By Step

Host introduces the Mazdaspeed Miata complete intake kit and lays out its sub-kits: throttle body inlet, turbo inlet/outlet pipes, O2 signal modifier, boost controller and bypass valve.

Rundown of required tools including hand tools, hose clamp pliers, hose pick, 2.5mm Allen key, wiring cutters/strippers/crimpers, shielded heat gun, brake clean and Simple Green.

All kit pipes are wiped down with brake clean and paper towel to remove any dirt or debris before installation.

Intake temp sensor is unplugged and removed with a 19mm deep socket, bypass hose and reference line disconnected, and the top and lower clamps plus coupler released to free the stock elbow.

New elbow is fitted with coupler and constant-torque clamps using Simple Green as lubricant and a pick to seat hoses, clamps tightened until the discs touch, and the air temp sensor relocated to the inboard boss.

Breather hoses are disconnected, the shock tower brace unbolted with a 12mm socket, the MAF-to-compressor pipe removed, and the MAF and pre-turbo temp sensor unplugged and unclipped from the airbox.

Snorkel and airbox are unbolted and lifted out, then the pre-turbo air temp sensor with grommet and the MAF sensor are removed from the box for reuse.

The bypass valve hoses and solenoid lines are disconnected (solenoid left plugged in to avoid a check engine light), the assembly removed, and the old rubber elbow and metal coupler saved for reuse.

Rubber hoses are separated from the silver pipes, the compressor inlet clamp released, mounting bolts (14mm and 10mm) removed, pipes pulled free of the wastegate line, and the 10mm bolt returned to the manifold.

Pre-turbo temp sensor and grommet go into the air filter mount pipe, the MAF seal is removed and MAF joined to both pipes with silicone couplers, ensuring the airflow arrow points away from the filter, with inboard clamps tightened.

The assembly is fitted to the compressor inlet hose with the stock spring clamp, aligned with the shock tower holes, the brace bolted back on, and the breather hoses reconnected with the second hose trimmed and pipe bent to fit.

Harness is routed over the power steering adjuster, MAF and air temp plugs connected, alignment of the pipes checked and all coupler clamps fully tightened.

Old clamps are removed and the new compressor outlet pipe is installed between the stock outlet hose and radiator-side elbow with new clamps, oriented with the vacuum port pointing down.

The off-angle air filter is fitted angled down to sit level, navigated around the brake booster line, checked for clearance and clamped.

Spring clamps and vacuum line are salvaged from the old assembly, then the new bypass valve is joined to the reused elbow, coupler, new 3/4 inch hose and silicone coupler with Simple Green as lubricant.

The bypass hose is routed under the throttle body pipe and water neck, cut to length, clamped to the compressor pipe, and the stock vacuum hose reconnected and routed to the valve while checking for chafing.

A mounting location on the MAF using the supplied bracket is chosen, the controller secured to the bracket with 2.5mm Allen screws, vacuum lines attached with the arrow toward the wastegate, and it is bolted to the MAF with a shorter bolt.

The old wastegate line is removed and the new lines are cut to length and connected to the wastegate actuator and the boost reference nipple on the underside of the pipe.

A vacuum line is teed from the intake manifold port and routed across the firewall through the unused cruise control grommet, with advice to cut the grommet to protect the line.

Under the dash the steering column panel and ECU plugs are removed, the black/red and blue (pin 4W) wires are cut, stripped, and joined to the modifier's black and white wires with three-way heat shrink butt connectors, then shrunk with a shielded heat gun.

The three ECU plugs are reinstalled, the modifier stuck to the ECU case with double-sided tape, the vacuum line connected to the top port and routed clear of pedals, and loose wiring zip-tied out of the way.

Instructions to turn the boost controller fully down, do full-throttle pulls in 5th or 6th gear above 4000 RPM, raising boost a click or two at a time to reach 9 psi or back off from boost cut threshold.

Host wraps up, points viewers to written instructions and customer support, and asks for subscriptions and future video ideas.