We thought the gas tank was bad, but WE GOT SURPRISED! - Nik's TR6 - P3

Recap of first start in 20 years and the plan to remove and clean the fuel tank, fix ignition wiring and make the TR6 drivable for a hoist inspection.

They explain the temporary red jumper wire from battery to coil, find the starter won't turn with the key, use a jump starter and choke, and drive the car out of the shed.

They empty the boot, discovering the gas filler, fog lights, headlight and shop manuals, then remove the tank access panel.

With the car on the hoist they find the fuel line run under the frame with a plastic section touching the exhaust, disconnect it and plan a copper-nickel line per original.

With the tank out they note the replaced boot floor pan, an oversized hole they may cover with rubber, foam cushions and the tank fittings.

After removing the sending unit they discover the apparent sludge is a protective coating, the tank is clean, and they vacuum out the old fuel and rinse it.

They test the variable-resistor sending unit with a multimeter, find intermittent contact, spray WD-40 inside, get 3 to 80 ohms empty to full, and reseal it with Ultra Black.

They remove the JB-Welded 90-degree fittings from the tank outlet and make a new 5/16 copper-nickel line with a compression olive, explaining olive length concerns.

They replace the dried-out breather hose and plastic vapor line on the tank canister using emission line salvaged from a GT6.

A piece of old differential mount rubber is used as a tank cushion, the tank is pried down to line up the screws and the canister is zip-tied.

They fit the filler hose clamps on the tank first, push the hose through the hole, fit the grommet and discuss the correct orientation relative to the boot lid.

They explain the original 5/16 hard and soft line route along the frame versus the oversized 3/8 line previously fitted, locate the vapor line and prepare a template for bending new copper-nickel line.

Brief aside about Nick's rusty Jeep winter vehicle and his reaction to the good news about the tank.

Nick hooks up the vapor and rear fuel lines while his dad connects the front line and makes a short copper piece between the fuel filter and fuel pump.

He demonstrates cutting two 5/16 olives with a file or lathe and combining them into one longer olive so the fuel pump fitting compresses properly.

Nick zip-ties the vent line clear of the axle and shock arm, secures the fuel line joint and installs the fuel filter with the arrow toward the pump.

With the valve cover installed they pour about 13 liters of fuel in the tank, pump to fill the filter and deliver fuel to the carburettors, then check for leaks.

They replace the mangled fitting, explain 5/16 versus 1/4 fittings, route the new line behind the fuel pump and thermostat, add a hose clamp and re-pressurize to check for leaks.

The next day pumping shows no leaks; a full suspension and transmission inspection before the first test drive is postponed to another video.

Closing thanks with requests to like, share and support via PayPal or Patreon.